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Mortlach.de Besucher :
Danke, das Sie vorbeigeschaut haben.

Die Scotch Malt Whiskey Society


ist eine Vereinigung von Kennern und Liebhabern von Single Malt Whisky. Ihr Ziel sind die Förderung und der differenzierte Genuß von Spitzenwhiskys.

Die handelsüblichen Whiskys müssen einen einheitlichen Geschmack haben. Dazu werden viele Whiskys aus verschiedenen Fässern mit großem Geschick kombiniert. Die Scotch Malt Whisky Society dagegen wurde gegründet, um die ganze Vielfalt der Whiskys zu erhalten. Die Experten der Society wählen Spitzenfässer aus, die von der Society unverdünnt und ungefiltert abgefüllt werden. Wir bieten Whiskys aus allen Brennereien an und haben schon viele große Whiskys ans Licht gebracht, die der Öffentlichkeit bislang vorenthalten geblieben waren.

Jedes Fass erhält eine Nummer, die auf der Flaschenetikette steht. Mit ihr kann man  feststellen, um welchen Whisky es sich handelt.

Wenn die Tropfen von Mortlach kommen ist es die Nr.: 76

Hier einige Original Tastingnotes :

·        Australien :

76.51 Fruit and Chewed Pencils           

Malcolm II, after praying to St. Moluag here, turned the tide of battle by throwing the Danish leader, Enetus, from his horse and strangling him. This pale gold sample, from a refill barrel, noses of fruit lollipops and boilings, green bananas, kiwi, pineapple and citrus, along with some grass and butterscotch Angel Delight. The unreduced palate is sweet with the heat of curried apple, cinnamon and pickled chilli. With water, the nose has slight rubber and the rootiness of Dr Pepper, though time brings ripe melon, peppermint and tobacco. The palate now has ripe fig, pineapple cubes and chewed pencils.

Local Panel Comments:

With a hugely complex nose, this could keep you occupied for some time! It's an extremely pleasant whisky, and - tasted blind - it fooled us into thinking it was from down Campbelltown way. A great whisky for the hip flask!

10 y, 60.9 % A$180

·        Benelux & Deutschland :

76.34 “Carnations and treacle ”

This distillery is the oldest in Dufftown, and it's 2 and a 1/2 times distilled spirit seems to suit sherry cask maturation.

This example seems to prove this assertion. It has a lovely deep colour, like golden syrup in the can. The first nose is rich in treacle: sweet, but with a smoky richness. It is also orangey, like good dark marmalade. The taste at cask strength is sweet and sherried, with a burnt finish and treacle in there too. When water is added, the character changes to become much more floral. The taste at reduced strength is treacly, caramel-sweet and had a cool finish. A great sherried whisky from a great distillery

€ 73,- ,58.6%,  June 1990, Bottles 655, 13Y

 

76.33Something for everyone”

This classic Speyside distillery still has wormtubs and boasts the oldest still in Dufftown.

With a wonderful deep amber hue, this examples is clearly from an active sherry cask. To begin with, the nose is greeted with a curious port note, then chocolate and mint, like Fry's and After Eights. In the background there is a buttery caramel character. To taste, it is initially sweet, then like chewing burnt wood. The impression is of a clean spirit. Floral elements appear with water: cowslips, buttercups and meadows: "very Julie Andrews". A buttery element remains. Diluted, the palate is sweet and creamy, and remains burnt at the finish. A little bit of everything, and all of it good.

€ 75,-, 58.6%,  June 1990, Bottles 644, 13Y   

·        Japan

76.51

 

·        Schweden :

76.42  - Sista buteljerna..    

Uppkäftig snorvalp

Detta destilleri var det första som byggdes i Dufftown; i staden med de sju destilleringspannorna – och dess gaeliska namn betyder lämpligt nog också skålformad dal. Destilleriets malt graderas som en första-klassens whisky av blenders. Ett amerikanskt firstfillfat har givit en mycket ljus färgton till vår unga whisky – som den av champagne. Som man kanske kan förvänta sig av en sådan ungdom, hittar vi en del toner av lösningsmedel och målarfärg - som sedan utvecklar sig mot granbarrstoner och lätt mint (mums!). I smaken hittar man aromer av cederträ och avslutningen ger en ganska lång eftersmak (med en liten tvålighet i sig). Med vatten är den uppkäftigt och ungt bitig; med syrliga äpplen eller gröna omogna päron. I bakvattnet hittar man även en del toner av sågspån. I smaken kommer vindruvor och russin fram samt en del blommigheter och en hint av lätta vårvioler. Den är ren och frisk och har en gräddig eftersmak.

6 y, 61,6 %, Juli -97/Maj -04

                            

76.37  - Slutsåld Brända apelsiner

Destilleriet var det första att byggas i Dufftown, om vilket det skaldades; “Rome was built on seven hills, and Dufftown on seven stills”. Destilleriet producerar en välkänt kraftig sprit, väl lämpad för mognad i europeisk ek – vilket detta exemplar väl demonstrerar. Det före detta sherryfatet har bidragit till en utmärkt djup bärnstensfärg, och den ger ett rikt pärlband av bubblor längs glasets kant. Doften är behaglig och värmande, rik på sirapsknäck och bränt apelsinskal; som så ofta följer med sherryfatsmognad - en puff av svavel som snart fläktar bort. Den finns, på acceptabel nivå, i smaken, innan vatten tillsatts, tillsammans med brunt socker, bränd apelsin och gummiballonger. Vatten omvandlar apelsintonen till den hos mörka chokladbitar av typen apelsinchoklad, fortfarande med ett kvardröjande lätt spår av gummi och svavel. En riktigt fyllig känsla i munnen med en övervägande söt smak (sockerkristaller) och ett långt varmt avslut. Ett måste för alla älskare av sherryfatslagringar.

13 y, 57,8 %, Juni -90/ Feb -04

 

76.33  - Slutsåld  Choklad, mint & lite av allt

Detta klassiska Speysidedestilleri använder fortfarande vattenkar för att kyla ner sina varma rör - detta faktum meddelar oss att detta är ett äldre destilleri – och det stämmer, vi är i det äldsta destilleriet i Dufftown. Med en underbar bärnstensfärgad whisky kommer detta exemplar från ett högst aktivt sherryfat. Till att börja med välkomnas näsan av en spännande portvinston, sedan av choklad och mint som i en avbruten bit After Eight. I bakgrunden finns en smörig och karamellig karaktär. I smaken är whiskyn först söt, sen får den en ”tugga på bränt trä”-ton. Intrycket är det av en väl gjort destillat. Blommiga element uppkommer med vatten - gullviva, smörblomma och ängar; ”väldigt Julie Andrews-aktigt”. Det smöriga elementet kvarstår. Utspädd är smaken söt och krämig och kvarstår som bränd i eftersmaken. Den har lite av allt – och allt den har är bra egenskaper.

Ålder

13 y, 58,6 %, Juni -90/Juli -03

           

76,51  Frukt och tuggade blyertspennor.

Malcom den II, efter att här ha bett till Sankta Moulag vändes stridens resultat genom att slänga den danska ledare Enetus ner från sin häst och strypa honom. Denna ljusguldfärgade dram från en refill fat doftar av fruktklubbor och gröna bananer, kiwifrukt, ananas och citrus, med några toner av gräs och smörkolapudding. Outspädd är smaken söt med en stark kryddsta av kurryäpplen, kanel och syltad chilli. Med vatten påminner doften man av Dr Pepper läsken, efter ett tag kommer däremot mogna meloner, peppearmynta och tobak ram i glaset. Smaken blir mogna fikon, ananas i sockersirap och tuggade blyerstpennor.

10 y, 60,9 %, Sep 96/ Sep 06
 

·        Taiwan :

76.47 Wee Witchie

We defeated the Danes near this Dufftown distillery which has the famous ‘Wee Witchie’ still. This sample, from a refill barrel, is the colour of white wine. The nose starts clean – laundries and lemony detergent, becoming lemon sherbet and shifting to vanilla; then dunnage warehouses, sawdust and hazelnuts; a zap of candy floss and finally perfumed green fruits. The full, warm taste has pears and pepper with chocolate and chilli in the finish. Reduced, the nose gives stewed apples and custard and a streak of paint – quite dreamy, while the flavour has expanding sweetness and candied angelica. Complex and wonderfully integrated.

9.1996/6.2006

9 y, 60.4%

·        Italien :

76.47 Equilibrio dolce-speziato

La Scozia sconfisse i Danesi in un’epica battaglia che ebbe luogo vicino a questa distilleria di Dufftown. Questo esempio, da un refill barrel, ha il colore del vino bianco. Al naso, comincia con profumi puliti e marcati – lavanderia e detergente al limone – per proseguire con sorbetto al limone prima di evolvere verso la vaniglia. Seguono profumo di bond umido, segatura e nocciole. Sul finale note profumate di frutta acerba. Assaggiato puro, evidenti i sapori di pera e pepe uniti a cioccolato e spezie sul finale. Con l’acqua emergono mele e crema, con nota vaga di solvente. Decisamente complesso e con gli aromi in splendida armonia.

60,4 %, ’96, 9 y, € 50.00
 

·        Schweiz :

76.52 Cremiger Samt   

Diese Destillerie in Dufftown, welche den gleichen Namen wie die Kirche trägt, bezieht ihr Wasser aus Quellen in den Conval Hügeln. Angeblich hat im Jahr 1010 hier Malcolm II die Dänen geschlagen. Diese Probe aus einem nachgefüllten Barrel hat die Farbe von Champagner. Der unverdünnte Duft ist bemerkenswert weich (Heidehonig) und frisch (grüne Äpfel). Mit Wasser wird der Duft wärmer und entwickelt künstliches Fruchtaroma wie bei Birnendrops. Vor der Wasserzugabe ist er am Gaumen frisch und pikant. Wasser produziert ein samtiges Mundgefühl wie von Toffee und Haselnüssen und einen langen, anhaltenden Abgang. Ein süffiger Aperitif!

Fr. 89.00, 10 y, 61.30 %, September 1996 , 242 Bottles

·        Großbritanien 

76.53 Apples on a fresh day

Price £37.00

From the first distillery to be established in Dufftown comes this constantly evolving dram. The nose is complex – sweetness, coconut and stewed apples. It is also earthy, spicy and perfumed. With water the nose is fresher with apples and lemons, it also has custard, white chocolate and coconut. The taste at full strength is peppery sweet, the mouth effect is big, full and lasting. It remains sweet with water and has a stunning medium length creamy aftertaste. This dram is great for its age.

10 y, 59.8%, September 1996, 247 bottles

 

76.52 Creamy velvet

This Dufftown distillery, which has the same name as the church, draws water from springs in the Conval hills. Apparently Malcolm II defeated the Danes near here in 1010. This example is the colour of champagne from a refill barrel. The unreduced nose is remarkably smooth (heather honey) and fresh (green apples). With water it is warmer on the nose and artificially fruity with pear drops. The palate is zingy and zesty at full strength. Water brings a velvety mouthfeel of toffee and hazelnut and a long lasting creamy finish. This is an easy drinking aperitif dram.

10 y, 61.3%, Sept 1996, 242 Bottles

 

76.49 A liquid companion

From the last distillery on the Dullan Water before it joins the Fiddich, this sample is bronze gold from a refill hogshead. The incredibly rich nose starts with faint echoes of copper and wood, becoming juicy pears and beeswax polish, before billowing out to marmalade, raisins, dried dates, butterscotch, treacle and crème brûlèe. The flavour is rich and chewy with some smoke, resin and liquorice. The length is immeasurable. With water it seemed salty and tobacco-like. Coming back to it later the nose found struck matches making it seem like a good cigar in reverse. A liquid companion.

16 y, 60.6%,  April 1985, 163 Bottles

 

76.47 'Pears and pepper, chocolate and chilli'

We defeated the Danes near this Dufftown distillery which has the famous ‘Wee Witchie’ still. This sample, from a refill barrel, is the colour of white wine. The nose starts clean – laundries and lemony detergent, becoming lemon sherbet and shifting to vanilla; then dunnage warehouses, sawdust and hazelnuts; a zap of candy floss and finally perfumed green fruits. The full, warm taste has pears and pepper with chocolate and chilli in the finish. Reduced, the nose gives stewed apples and custard and a streak of paint – quite dreamy, while the flavour has expanding sweetness and candied angelica. Complex and wonderfully integrated.

9 y, 60.4%, September 1996, 230 Bottles

 

76.46 A lick of dragon fire

The first of Dufftown’s ‘seven stills’ was built in 1823. The Gaelic name means ‘great hillock’. This golden syrup coloured sample is from a refill hoggie. The neat nose has pine, pepper and pomegranate, blood orange, candy floss and a touch of smoke – loads going on. Adding water drives it clearly to the fruity end – plum, peach and liqueur-laced fruit cocktail. The palate is lively, tongue-burning, very dry and sweet with burnt sugar, candy floss and gooseberries in the finish. With water it is more kindly, a delicious fruity sweetness but with some smoke and a lick of dragon fire.

21 y, 61.1%, April 1985, 230 Bottles

 

76.45 Scotch broth and comic books

In Dufftown’s oldest distillery, six assorted stills convert water from Highland man John’s Well into nectar. This pale, bright gold sample from a refill barrel is not typical. The nose is barley sugar and Scotch broth, some pear and vanilla, a suggestion of smoke and the aroma of new comic books. Reduced, it produces fresh, wet grass and herbs (tarragon), new pencils and lemon. The neat palate is hot, sweet, nippy and salty, like sweet pickled chillies. The length is impressive with a creamy aftertaste. With water it remains sweet and salty but tamer, insinuating blossoms and fruit. A great pre-dinner dram.

9 y, 61.2%, September 1996, 227 Bottles

 

76.44 'Chocolate biscuits with smoky marmalade'

The first of Dufftown’s ‘Seven Stills’ has once again produced a rich, full-bodied malt, typical of its type. Highly prized by those in the industry, this cask was no exception, making a real impact on the Panel. 15 y in an ex-sherry butt have imparted initial notes of raisins, BBQ sauce and spare ribs. Hints of smoke and burnt fruit add that essential kick. On the palate, Marmite and treacle are joined by a slightly cloying chocolate which is balanced with dry tobacco leaves. Water was added with caution but gave a hint of marmalade and mint to the nose. To taste, we found bitter orange chocolate, lemon tea and Marmite on toast. Simple but good!

15 y, 59.3%, August 1989, 605 Bottles

 

76.43 The pagan and the priest

The first legal distillery in Dufftown draws water from the Priest Well and has a still called the ‘Wee Witchie’ thus appropriately linking the Christian and the Pagan. A sherry butt has given this an orange gold colour. The unreduced nose has lots of sherry, rich brown sugar, hard toffee and a hint of molasses rum. Water brings out spicy gingerbread. The neat taste has bitter chocolate and an insinuation of rubber and matches. These latter notes fade with water to be replaced by orange sweets. It takes water well and is wonderfully chewy and warm. A perfect sherried Speyside.

12 y, 57.2%, June 1991, 633 Bottles

 

76.42 Feisty youngster

This was the first distillery in Dufftown, ‘the town of seven stills’. The name appropriately means a ‘bowl-shaped valley’ in Gaelic. Its malt is rated ‘Top Class’ by blenders. This young first fill American barrel has produced a champagne colour. As you expect from something so young the initial nose is solvent and of paint thinner. The nose develops with pine needles and light mint. The taste is of scented cedarwood and is medium length with a soapy aftertaste. With water the nose is bitter with cooking apples or green unripe pears and there is sawdust at the back of the nose. With water there is grapes and raisins, there is also floral notes with a hint of spring violets. It is clean, fresh, with a creamy aftertaste. This is a lovely clean dram.

6 y, 61.6%, July 1997, 259 Bottles

 

76.41 Philadelphia cheese on a summer day

This is from the first distillery built in Dufftown, which was later able to claim to have been ‘built on seven stills’, just as Rome had been built on seven hills. It comes from a refill American cask, and is pale gold in colour. The first nose is sweet and fruity, with fresh apples, Golden Delicious, raspberry boiled sweets and scented washing powder. Water makes it much more estery and Speyside-like, bubblegum and acetone, with vanilla sponge, Philadelphia cheese and ice cream. The flavour is sweet and smooth, then somewhat bitter, crisp and summery, with fresh fruit and medium length and a slightly mouth-drying finish.

6 y, 61.5%, July 1997, 264 Bottles

 

76.40 A well-adjusted dram

This Dufftown distillery draws water from the Priests Well. The church nearby was built on the cell of Saint Moluag who converted the Picts and whose name is invoked against insanity. So from this auspicious place we have acquired a well-adjusted dram, mid gold from sherry wood though the sherry characteristics are muted. The nose is sweet, slightly oily and creamy. There is rhubarb rock, chocolate, Madeira cake and sugared fruits, orange and pineapple. With water it is fresh and clean, slightly perfumed with sweet lemon and a touch of spice. The taste is peppery-hot and sweet with a suggestion of cinnamon.

9 y, 59.8%, April 1994, 624 Bottles

 

76.39 Toffee and Christmas pudding

If Dufftown was built on seven stills this was the very first, built in 1823, the year of the famous Excise Act. This sample is antique gold and comes from a sherry cask. The unreduced nose has honey, Crunchie bars and burnt sugar. It also has a note of pine resin and then a whiff of sulphur. Water brings butterscotch and polished wood. In the mouth it is mellow, warm and lingering, tasting rich, buttery and sweet like toffee and Christmas pudding. Not too sweet, though a slight edge resolves the sweetness into a delicious aftertaste. Great for its age.

10 y, 60.7%, , April 1994, 411 Bottles

 

76.38 Mushrooms and custard

Dufftown was built on seven stills, just as Rome was built on seven hills! This

12 y, 56.1%, June 1991, 641 Bottles

 

76.37 Burnt orange

The distillery was the first to be built in Dufftown, of which it was later said “Rome was built on seven hills, and Dufftown on seven stills”. It produces a famously heavy spirit, well-suited to maturation in European oak – as this example demonstrates. The ex-sherry cask has given it a splendid deep amber hue, and it throws a big bead. The nose is comforting and warming, rich with treacle toffee and burnt orange peel; the whiff of brimstone that often accompanies sherry-wood maturation is present, but soon blows away. It is present (at an acceptable level) in the flavour at full strength, along with burnt brown sugar, burnt orange and balloons. Water converts the orange note into Terry’s Chocolate Orange segments (made with dark chocolate); still a lingering trace of rubber and sulphur. A big mouthfeel, a predominantly sweet taste (sugar crystals) and a long, warming finish. A must for those who like sherry-wood maturation.

13 y, 13%, 13, June 1990, 0 Bottles

 

76.36 Dried figs stewed in tea

The distillery was the first to be built in Dufftown, of which it was later said “Rome was built on seven hills, and Dufftown on seven stills”. It produces a famously heavy spirit, well-suited to maturation in European oak – as this example demonstrates. The ex-sherry cask has given it a splendid deep amber hue, and a rich nose packed with dried fruits – raisins, sultanas, prunes and then figs (stewed in tea, to be precise, and this comes across in the flavour at full strength as well). It is only when water is added that the tell-tale whiff of struck matches tells speaks of sherry-wood maturation, but not at a high level; the fruitiness lingers in a reduced way, and both come across in the flavour, which is rich and sweet, with a thread of sulphur and dried fruits in the after-taste. As it should be.

13 y, 13%, 13, June 1990, 120 Bottles

 

76.35 Cordite and roasting tins

The distillery was the first to be built in Dufftown, of which it was later said “Rome was built on seven hills, and Dufftown on seven stills”. It produces a famously heavy spirit, well-suited to maturation in European oak – as this example demonstrates. The ex-sherry cask has given it a splendid deep amber hue, like polished mahogany. and a rich nose which presents first butterscotch and then a dark gravy-like aroma, like de-glazing a roasting tin. Radishes were also noted. The flavour at natural strength is sweet then slightly bitter, with some sulphur in between. The sulphury note beloved of those who enjoy sherry-wood maturation, emerges more definitely when water is added as spent fireworks and cordite, but gradually fades, leaving a big rounded, comforting impression of dried fruit and burnt potato skins, wrested from the ashes of a fire. There is no trace of sulphur in the flavour, which is big and smooth and bitter-sweet.

13 y, 57.8%, June 1990, 90 Bottles

 

76.30 Beer and chocolate raisins

This, the oldest legal distillery in Dufftown, produces a classic Speyside whisky. It has developed a solid reputation over the y though as a single malt it is not exactly common. This example is a deep orange gold from a sherry butt and has the aromas of malty beer, chocolate raisins and a freshly opened tin of dried fruit. Water excites some citric and sherbet notes and distant parma violets. It is full, sweet and syrupy in the mouth but with a somewhat astringent, dry finish. A very enjoyable sherried dram.

13 y, 59.3%, August 1989, 544 Bottles

 

76.29 Fruit salad chews

This highly respected distillery has five different-shaped stills, each performing a unique role in a confusing maturation process. The end product is generally superlative and this cask is no exception. At first this hogshead had a closed but sweet nose, with fresh pears and fruit punch soon developing. With water, the compote of fruit descriptors continued: caramelised bananas, boiled sweeties and tutti frutti. On the palate there is saltiness at the side of the palate, but overall it is delicious and mouth-filling with fruit salad chews prominent. The Panel advises only a little water, as this dram is more delicate than its age would suggest. A truly remarkable Speyside.

13 y , 13 %, April 1989, 283 Bottles

 

76.28 Turf and earth

This distillery is under-marketed as a single, despite being held in high regard by the blenders. Amazingly it has five stills, all of a different shape. The American hogshead this example has matured in has given a light gold colour, with plenty of aroma in the first nose: A herbal, creamy, linament complex of smells, and even a thread of peat in the background. On the palate it is full and thick, with a sweet and crisp grassy flavour. With water the nose changes to become like a musty cellar, still with a creaminess in the background, and developing towards clumps of turf with the earth still attached. There is a fruitiness also, like the juice from tinned fruit cocktail. The diluted taste has some sweetness but finishes dry and very clean. Summer drinking without doubt, and another good examples from this highly-respected Speyside distillery.

13 y, 59.8%, April 1989, 289 Bottles

 

76.27 Green grapes

Here is an attractive mid-gold whisky from a distillery established on land leased from the Earl of Macduff. It has matured in a sherry butt, but there is no discernible sherry influence. However, the cask is undoubtedly a good one and has produced a whisky that seems mature beyond its y. An initial nosing will find tinned pineapples and caramel upside-down-cake. The taste at full strength is quite hot, but rather good. Add water to bring out a sweet dustiness, like icing sugar or the cracked topping of a lemon meringue pie. The nose then moves on to its predominant note of green grapes and this is developed in the taste, which reminded us of fizzy grape juice. A very refreshing, mouth-cooling whisky for summer.

11 y, 11%, March 1989, 596 Bottles

 

76.26 Exceptional orange

From the distillery which was built on the land leased from the Earl of MacDuff in 1823. This whisky is tawny bronze, from a good sherry butt. The first nose is clean, fresh orange. At full strength, it has a velvety mouthfeel and mouthfilling flavour. Water moves the nose towards rumtopf but still with a light freshness. The taste develops around the oranginess, tingly on the tongue, smoothing into a long finish. A very enjoyable and well balanced dram.

11 y, 59.5%, May 1989, 514 Bottles

 

76.24 Real rum and raisin ice cream

Your panel has been regularly impressed with casks from this distillery (the first in Dufftown) and this example is no exception. Antique gold in colour the initial nose is rum and raisin ice cream (the real stuff), followed by Brazil nuts. With water, there is a fresh earth note mixed with the fruit/sweetness of cough drops in icing sugar. The taste is round, warming and balanced with a dry smoky aftertaste – the whole thing hangs together very well. One to drink in peace whilst you contemplate the wrapped presents under the tree.

11 y, 59%, March 1989, 358 Bottles

 

76.21 Eves pudding with syrup

The first distillery to be built at Dufftown (in 1823) still has worm-tubs and produces a heavy character of spirit which is well-suited to sherry-wood maturation. This example is from an American oak refill hogshead, however, which seems to have sweetened its contents while retaining its texture. The colour is amber, and the first impression on the nose is of fresh laundry or old muslin. Soon this is replaced by first a light cooked apples note, then a light vanilla sponge (we thought immediately of Eve’s Pudding), with increasing sweetness: treacle toffee was detected by some members of the panel. With water, the nose continues to be sweet – light fudge, then pineapple cubes, with a background of warm wax or oil. The latter comes out in the mouth-feel, which is big, sweet and syrupy, with a long finish. The nose is sweet and the delivery in the mouth is splendid.

19 y, 59.6%, May 1980, 112 Bottles

 

76.20

Matured in sherry wood and then transferred to port cask for one and a half y, for finishing. Smooth, sweet, rounded with a floral bouquet of meadow herbs and orchids. Very impressive but quite accessible.

19 y, 57.9%, May 1980

 

76.18 Everton mints and Five spice

Dufftown’s earliest distillery still uses worm tubs, which lends weight to its ‘Top Class’ make. When this is combined with maturation in European oak (as has happened in this case), the result can be magnificent, as this example is. The mid-gold colour speaks of a several-times refilled cask, but the nose is clean (fresh laundry) and nose drying in its effect. It is also highly complex; roast pork with apples, then cinnamon, all spice, powdered ginger and cloves. The flavour at full strength supports this; fruity and sweet, but thick and gingery. With water it opens considerably, becomes waxy (shoe polish), toffied and minty (Everton mint toffees). If you breathe in deeply, you may pick up white pepper and dry peat. The flavour at reduced strength is big, sweet and toffied, with the pepper and earthy peat appearing in the dry (not bitter) finish. It leaves a pleasantly lingering aftertaste. A mighty dram.

17y, 57.4%, June 1981, 285 Bottles

 

76.17 Chilli flavoured ice cream

Don’t be put off by the pale colour of this bottling from Dufftown’s best-respected distillery. It is enga ging and very drinkable. From a refill hogshead it has a creamy, rich unreduced nose with some vanilla and buttery notes and a clean, fresh sweetness. Water introduces a subtle white-peppery note. Full, sweet and clean, with water it lingers longer; a sweetish start, a dryish finish; a smooth, creamy mouthfeel and a hint of vanilla ice cream. The pepper returns with a vengeance in mid-palate, giving it an attractive kick. Don’t spread the word or they’ll all want one.

14 y, 54.2% December 1983, 288 Bottles

 

76.15 Fruit salad and old leaves

The first distillery to be built in Dufftown (there are now six) is still the only one considered ‘First Class’ by blenders. Although the malt is bottled by its owners, it is uncommon and in short supply. This bottling is pale gold in colour (from a re-fill hogshead), with a nose which is packed with fruit: melon balls, raspberries, tinned straw berries, lemon juice – a fruit salad in other words – but with an interesting earthy dryness in the background, like autumn leaves. With water the aroma becomes more lemony and pear-drops like: sweet, with orange leaves, Parma violets and irises, yet still this earthy note. The flavour is sweet overall and the earthy element resolves itself as peat in the finish.

12 y, 57.8%, November 1985, 304 Bottles

 

76.14 Fruit salad

The first distillery to be built in Dufftown, where there are now six. Although the malt is bottled by its owners, it is uncommon and in short supply. This bottling is pale gold in colour, from a refill cask, with a nose which is packed with fruit. Melon balls, raspberries, tinned strawberries, lemon juice: a fruit salad, in other words. With water the aroma becomes more lemony and pear-drops like: sweet and fresh with orange leaves, Parma violets and irises. The flavour is sweet overall, with an unexpected peat-reek ‘catch’ in the finish.

12 Y, 57.8% ,November 1985, 304 Bottles

 

76.13 Fair grounds

The first distillery to be built at Dufftown draws its water from "Highlander John's Well" - a former smugglers' spring - and employs a form of partial triple distillation. Its product is rated "top class" by blenders and has a great reputation amongst connoisseurs. The first impression on the nose was described as "fair-grounds" steam engines and sweet oil, with some fragrant air freshener in the background. With water it becomes a warm car engine with an ice-cream cone melting on top. The flavour starts with candy-floss sweetness, then introduces a fizzy, fiery note before finishing like bitter chocolate with an aftertaste of sandalwood.

11 y, 59.3%, June 1986, 300 Bottles

 

76.11  Eating toffee while being chloroformed

Earliest of the eight Dufftown distilleries. On the Fiddich river, but not eponymously. Perfectly pale, slightly greenish colour, from a new oak cask. The nose is very sharp, but sweet and medicinal, like eating toffee while being chloroformed. With water, it becomes mild and nutty. The taste begins sweet and peppery; barley-sugar in cayenne. It ends dryly and very long.

13 y, 59.5%, May 1980

M. Mattonet
m.mattonet@arcor.de